final colors of sunset
Yesterday evening I sat balanced on my surfboard, watching for the next set of waves; my eyes riveted to the light of the sky as it shifted and changed with each new minute that passed.
The sun was setting behind the mountains. The clouds reflecting orange, yellow and pink. The water before me shimmered a deep orange.
I looked behind at a swell approaching. I checked my alignment to the shore. I checked right and left, making sure no one else was paddling.
My arms began pumping. My heart beat louder. The swell was closer. I smiled as my speed picked up. A moment later I was standing, my pop-up successful. My board raced down the face of the wave, whitewater exploding behind me.
My smile grew into a grin. The grin into a hearty laugh.
I am hooked. I surf.
