amelia carolyn

hihimanu summit trail

I recently wrote a two-part series on my experience preparing for, and hiking hihimanu (shown above) over at my blog for Expand Outdoors. They’re both pretty long, but I tried to capture more than just a report on the trail and the elevation and facts of the hike.

I talk about taking risks and how it’s different between the genders. I talk about why this particular hike was challenging for me and what my mental processes were as I prepared myself for going on the hike, and what helped me during the actual hike.

I know a lot of my readers here enjoy my race reports and hearing about my experiences here on Kaua’i, so wanted to let you know about the recent posts (if you hadn’t already) and invite you to go over there and check them out (read part one; read part two).

adjusting
I’m still adjusting to having two blogs these days, so appreciate your patience during this new exploration. Here are links to a few more of my posts over there that you might find interesting:

stripping down in the outdoors

beauty of the stars

finding your tribe

seeing through new eyes

kaua'i sunset

As our time here on Kaua’i winds down, we’re busy enjoying the sun, spending time with friends and eating as many mangos and fresh avocados and ahi as we can. Seriously. I’m going to miss the food.

But! At the same time, our next adventure is on the horizon and it’s really, really exciting. You’ll be hearing lots more about it as we get closer to it (and of course, while we’re on it), but for now, here’s a sneak peek.

One year. A van. Two bikes, climbing gear and running shoes. A couple of computers, add me and Bracken and voila! Adventure.

We arrive back on the mainland (in UT) at the end of May. There, we’ll look for a van that will fit us, our stuff and our budget, kit it out and then drive it to Boulder. (Or, we’ll figure a way to Boulder and find a van there… thus begins the year of living in the moment.)

We’ll hang out in Boulder seeing friends, catching up, attending Ignite Boulder 11 (yay!) and working (probably a lot). We’ll then set out early August for a family reunion in Idaho and from there… onward.

We’ll be working some, climbing a lot, biking a good chunk and running many miles over this next year. We’ve been talking about this for a few years now (well before we got engaged) and it’s finally happening. I’m still trying to wrap my head around it… I’m excited and petrified all at once. I’m learning the art of transition quickly.

Here’s to adventure! Hope to see you on the road, at the crag and on the trail.

Aloha!

november 2009: my new board

In an effort to live more simply, I try to purchase only what I need or what I love, and to purge when necessary. The time has come to begin purging our major Hawaii purchases in preparation for our return to the mainland. As pragmatic as I tend to be, the process of selling and getting rid of things is never easy for me.

Especially when I am selling something that helps me connect with memories and experiences. I purchased my surfboard at the monthly surf swap, held the first Saturday of every month in Hanalei. It’s a 7’9″ Blair hybrid (between a long board and a short board). It’s been the perfect board for me this winter. Easy to paddle, maneuverable on the wave, pretty and mine.

I just posted it on craigslist this morning and find myself in a particularly melancholy mood. I’ve experienced many ups and downs in my surf education this winter. Lots of frustration and discouragement mixed with amazing moments of joy and exhilaration. I have re-connected to the power of the ocean. I have experienced humility and growth.

dawn patrol: hanalei bay

My board is a tangible representation of my journey and I am sad to see it go. One more lesson in the impermanence of “things.” I wish I had more pictures of me actually surfing, but getting the stars to align for the wave, me riding, and having someone on the beach with a camera at the ready is actually pretty difficult. But I have a million memories stored within me to hold close.

I’ve carried it from the apartment to the car and back; up and down the beach looking for the best place to go out. I’ve stripped the old wax with a cancelled credit card (better than a store-bought scraper) and took pleasure in applying a new base coat and layer of regular wax.

surfing

I’ve surfed on small and big (for me) days; glassy and clean days, and choppy and really soupy days. I’ve surfed in the sun, the rain and the wind (often in the same session). I’ve surfed at sunrise and sunset.

I’ve been in the line up with professional surfers and I’ve been out completely alone. I’ve seen sea turtles close up and double rainbows over the bay. The water has been murky gray and a clear, brilliant blue.

I’ve dodged crowds of keiki’s and tourists learning, as well as the more experienced surfers and paddle boarders. I’ve gotten annoyed at the lack of etiquette from surfers, and met incredibly encouraging ones. I’ve been cut on the foot, hit in the head and bruised from this sport. I’ve been tossed around in the whitewater more times than I can count.

I’ve experienced tears of frustration and huge grins of exhilaration.

I think my absolute favorite experience is when it’s a calm, early morning session with friendly waves and a light drizzle of rain. There aren’t many people out and a rainbow appears across the bay. Pure magic.

heading home

I’ve learned how to surf here on Kaua’i, and for that I am incredibly grateful. The learning curve is long and requires an immense amount of patience and perseverance. And it’s oh-so-rewarding.

Outrigger canoe surfing. Who knew it could be so much fun? About a month ago I was out surfing by the Hanalei Pier and saw a group surf a few waves there in this canoe (or wa’a). I was immediately smitten.

A few weeks later I saw a guy on the beach by the canoe (and a lot of beginner surfboards) advertising for free lessons and canoe rides.

I was intrigued.

I approached him about the details. (Essentially, he operates on gratuity and takes up to three people out for about an hour.) Sweet.

Yesterday afternoon, Bracken and I headed to the beach for a walk. It was a beautiful Hawaiian afternoon: blue sky, light winds, clean surf. As we neared the water I spotted the canoe. A smile erupted. Perfect.

Our guide (Ethan) was ready to go. “Just give me ten minutes to get it ready for the water.” He gave us a brief rundown on paddle usage and getting in and out of the canoe. Neither Bracken nor I had ever been in one before. (Between the two of us, we have pretty minimal experience with any kind of paddling sport.)

We headed out into the surf, me in the front, Bracken directly behind me, and our guide steering from the back. We immediately felt the water splash over us as we barreled head-first into the breaking waves. It felt good.

We paddled toward the Bowl—a popular reef break with overhead+ waves. We’d been out to the Bowl surfing this winter. It’s serious business when the waves are good. Ethan instructed me (sitting in front) to lean over as far into the wave as I could once we caught the wave, encouraging me to sit up on the side and really put my weight into it.

He steered us into the lineup. And then “GO! Paddle!” And we dug deep and fast, matching the speed of our canoe with the oncoming wave. “WE GOT IT!” And we did. I hopped up onto the edge of the canoe, leaned all my weight into the wave and felt pure joy. It was divine. Exhilarating.

We spent the rest of the hour at the bowl, paddling for, catching, and riding the waves. Then turning around and doing it all over again. We pulled out of a few (didn’t get the right amount of speed going—we all have to paddle exactly together, or the wave didn’t break as we [okay, Ethan... we were really mostly along for the ride] thought it would), but overall, caught quite a few.

At one point, a big outside set came through and we had to paddle hard to get over the crest. I flew out of my seat about 2 feet and landed hard. I don’t think my smile left. I’ll have a pretty serious bruise for sure, but I’d do it all over again tomorrow. And the next day, too.

Heading into shore, we relaxed a bit and paddled along the shoreline. Ethan shared some local history of the bay (how they used the pier to bring cattle onto the island) and history of hawaiian canoe surfing. It’s the oldest sport on the islands and for that reason, is grandfathered and exempt from many laws. No permitting requirements, no safety requirements, no life jackets and can land anywhere on shore (whereas boats cannot). It’s an ancient sport with amazing history and tradition.

And a total blast. I wanna go again!