november 2009: my new board

In an effort to live more simply, I try to purchase only what I need or what I love, and to purge when necessary. The time has come to begin purging our major Hawaii purchases in preparation for our return to the mainland. As pragmatic as I tend to be, the process of selling and getting rid of things is never easy for me.

Especially when I am selling something that helps me connect with memories and experiences. I purchased my surfboard at the monthly surf swap, held the first Saturday of every month in Hanalei. It’s a 7’9″ Blair hybrid (between a long board and a short board). It’s been the perfect board for me this winter. Easy to paddle, maneuverable on the wave, pretty and mine.

I just posted it on craigslist this morning and find myself in a particularly melancholy mood. I’ve experienced many ups and downs in my surf education this winter. Lots of frustration and discouragement mixed with amazing moments of joy and exhilaration. I have re-connected to the power of the ocean. I have experienced humility and growth.

dawn patrol: hanalei bay

My board is a tangible representation of my journey and I am sad to see it go. One more lesson in the impermanence of “things.” I wish I had more pictures of me actually surfing, but getting the stars to align for the wave, me riding, and having someone on the beach with a camera at the ready is actually pretty difficult. But I have a million memories stored within me to hold close.

I’ve carried it from the apartment to the car and back; up and down the beach looking for the best place to go out. I’ve stripped the old wax with a cancelled credit card (better than a store-bought scraper) and took pleasure in applying a new base coat and layer of regular wax.

surfing

I’ve surfed on small and big (for me) days; glassy and clean days, and choppy and really soupy days. I’ve surfed in the sun, the rain and the wind (often in the same session). I’ve surfed at sunrise and sunset.

I’ve been in the line up with professional surfers and I’ve been out completely alone. I’ve seen sea turtles close up and double rainbows over the bay. The water has been murky gray and a clear, brilliant blue.

I’ve dodged crowds of keiki’s and tourists learning, as well as the more experienced surfers and paddle boarders. I’ve gotten annoyed at the lack of etiquette from surfers, and met incredibly encouraging ones. I’ve been cut on the foot, hit in the head and bruised from this sport. I’ve been tossed around in the whitewater more times than I can count.

I’ve experienced tears of frustration and huge grins of exhilaration.

I think my absolute favorite experience is when it’s a calm, early morning session with friendly waves and a light drizzle of rain. There aren’t many people out and a rainbow appears across the bay. Pure magic.

heading home

I’ve learned how to surf here on Kaua’i, and for that I am incredibly grateful. The learning curve is long and requires an immense amount of patience and perseverance. And it’s oh-so-rewarding.

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